Duralex Manhattan

Since the two models hold almost the same amount, the choice comes down to shape. The low 31 cl tumbler has a wide opening and a heavy base, which suits whisky over a large block of ice or a cocktail you stir in the glass. The 30.5 cl highball glass is narrower and taller, so it keeps the bubbles going longer and takes up less room on a tray. If you want one model for everything, take the tumbler: it drinks more easily in the hand and stands more steadily.

The cut facets come into their own with drinks that let light through, so clear spirits, tonic and amber whisky. Stir an Old Fashioned straight in the tumbler over one large block of ice, which melts slowly and keeps the balance right. A Manhattan strictly belongs in a coupe, but on the rocks in this glass it works just as well. Pour to just below the top band of facets each time, so the cut band stays visible above the liquid.

Tempered glass owes its strength to rapid cooling after forming, which puts the outer layer under compression. That makes the Manhattan more resistant to being knocked over and to hot washing-up water than cut crystal with the same look. The facets do create more corners for limescale to settle in, so rinse with soft water after the dishwasher or dry the glasses with a cloth. Don't use a scouring pad: scratches show up immediately on the flat surfaces.

If you want the same tempered glass without the cut, have a look at the Chope or at the full Duralex range, where all the French series sit together. To compare with other brands, use the old fashioned glasses and whisky glasses overviews. For mixing at home there are bar spoons ready to go, and every tall size sits under highball glasses. That way you can compare shape, capacity and brand in one go.