Gin and tonic glasses

Size is the most important choice and the most underrated one. A gin and tonic consists of about five centilitres of gin, twice as much tonic and a generous amount of ice, and that calls for at least 50 cl of glass. Go for 65 to 80 cl and you can genuinely pack the glass with ice, which is no excess: a lot of ice melts more slowly than a little, so your drink actually waters down less. Anything smaller than 50 cl forces you to choose between ice and tonic.

The second choice is the shape of the bowl. A classic copa with a slightly tapered rim holds the scent best and is the logical choice if you work with botanicals. A tighter, straighter bowl such as the 53 cl Alkemist looks more modern and suits a minimalist bar better. The lower versions of around 53 cl are more stable on a terrace or a tray. Watch the stem too: a short, thick stem is less likely to break and is the sensible option for the trade, while a long stem looks more elegant and keeps your hand further from the ice.

The order matters more than the brand of gin. First fill the glass three quarters full with large ice cubes and leave it to stand so the glass turns cold; then pour off the meltwater. Next pour the gin over the ice and stir briefly with a bar spoon. The tonic goes in last, down the side of the glass or over the back of the spoon, so you spare the carbonation. After that, stir half a turn at most.

Choose the garnish to suit the gin, not out of habit. With a classic London Dry a strip of lemon peel works, with a citrus-heavy gin a slice of orange, and with a spiced gin a sprig of rosemary or a few peppercorns rather than half a fruit salad. Always squeeze a peel above the glass before you drop it in. The full ratio is on the page about the gin and tonic. The same glass also works for a hugo spritz, where the elderflower needs the same room.

Large bowls go dull faster than small glasses, and that is down to the water rather than the glass. Limescale settles on the wide surface and shows up as soon as light passes through it. So wash on a short glassware programme, dose rinse aid sparingly and, with hard water, rinse afterwards with a splash of vinegar in the water. Polish the glass with a lint-free cloth while it is still warm.

Citric acid is the second enemy. A slice of lime left in a glass overnight leaves a dull ring that is hard to remove later. So rinse glasses out straight after use. When washing, place them apart in the basket, because a copa with a long stem topples easily and taps against its neighbour. Store them upright, with the bowl clear, and not upside down on the rim.

If you want a tall, straight glass instead of a bowl, those are the long drink glasses, which work just as well for a gin and tonic but hold less scent. For the lower, heavier models, look at the tumbler glasses. If you would rather see every cocktail shape side by side first, start with the cocktail glasses. The French house Lehmann makes the Barcelona, a 50 cl copa developed with sommeliers. And to pour the tonic gently you need a bar spoon.